Senin, 29 Januari 2007

Canon SD900 Digital Camera Review

The 10.0 megapixel PowerShot SD900 Digital ELPH takes the marriage of style and substance to a new level, by offering an array of user-friendly features along with faster response time and a new face detection autofocus system that keeps subjects in focus no matter where they appear in the frame. With its sinuous perpetual curve design elegantly clad in pure titanium, the PowerShot SD900 ELPH is visually arresting. But what’s inside is just as impressive: a powerful 10.0 megapixel CCD, 3x optical zoom and newly developed DIGIC III Image Processor.

DPReview have a fresh review up of the SD900. Here’s what they said about tit-



"The SD900’s biggest selling-point for us is simple; it offers some of the best (perhaps the best) image quality in this category, but if we’re being honest we’re not talking quantum leaps here, and the typical user of this type of camera, producing small prints, is unlikely to really see a significant advantage. If you like a touch of luxury (which the build and finish definitely give you) and want a ’point and shoot’ camera that offers reliably high quality output suitable for decent enlargements, the SD900 is certainly a worthy competitor. We just feel that in this, the most competitive and fastest-moving sector of the market, the SD900 will, for many users, have priced itself out of the running.


The SD900 comes as close as possible to a ’Highly Recommended’ (and if exclusivity and pixel level image quality is more important to you than features or price it probably deserves one), but for us it misses by a whisker."








Featuring
10-megapixel CCD captures enough detail for photo-quality 18 x 24-inch prints
3x optical zoom; 2.5-inch LCD display
Sleek titanium body and perpetual curve design; touch-control dial for increased usability
Stores images on SD cards; powered by Lithium-ion rechargeable battery NB-5L
ISO now ranges from 80-1600; now supports SDHC cards (Secure Digital cards with over 2 GB capacity)









Suggested Accessories
Canon HF-DC1 High Power Flash for Canon Powershot Digital Cameras
Canon ACK-DC30 AC Adapter Kit for SD700 IS Digital Camera
Canon PSC-55 Soft Leather Compact Case for SD430, SD500, SD550, SD600, SD630, SD700 IS, SD800 IS & SD900 Digital Cameras
Canon CB-2LX Battery Charger for SD700 IS Digital Camera
Canon Digital Elph Accessory Kit for Canon SD700 IS, SD800 IS and SD900 Digital Cameras









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Read the full review...

Rabu, 24 Januari 2007

Panasonic Lumix FZ50

The LUMIX DMC-FZ50 with MEGA O.I.S. (Optical Image Stabilizer) features a powerful 12x optical zoom (equivalent to 35 mm to 420 mm on a 35 mm film camera) f/2.8 LEICA DC lens. It also boasts a 10.1-megapixel high resolution CCD for its image sensor and Venus Engine III for the image processing LSI, making it possible to record an image at a maximum ISO 1600 high sensitivity setting at full resolution. Furthermore, by dramatically reducing noise levels, the DMC-FZ50 is able to capture 10.1-megapixel full resolution images even in high sensitivity recordings.

TheImagingResource have reviewed the FZ50 and gave it a Dave’s pick rating. That’s good enough for me. But wait...It does almost everything right, but not quite-


"Despite some nagging issues, it’s hard not to like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50. Any camera that pairs a high quality Leica-branded 12x optical zoom lens with Panasonic’s excellent MEGA O.I.S. is a great value and offers a myriad of uses. But with digital SLRs sinking so dramatically in price, is there still a viable argument for buying an all-in-one ultrazoom camera? With the Lumix FZ50, I would argue "yes." In addition to its great lens and optical image stabilizer, the camera offers an impressive 10 megapixels, solid sharpness, bright, punchy, colorful images, and a range of helpful top-flight features. Best of all, this camera is fun to use and makes taking sharp, zoomed-in images a snap for photographers of most skill levels. While some previous Panasonic models suffered from excessive luminance noise even at low ISOs, the Lumix FZ50 with its Venus Engine III LSI image processor seems to have solved those problems.

On the downside, the Panasonic FZ50 really struggles when shooting at higher ISO levels, producing images that are marred by excessive chroma noise. While this would seem to be a serious problem for people who like to shoot in low light without a flash, the Lumix FZ50 offsets these issues with its MEGA O.I.S. and the camera’s very fast (f/2.8- f/3.7) lens. Also a tradeoff is the camera’s design. While its bulky, tough-looking exterior will appeal to macho shooters, others might just find the camera imposing and be turned off by the fact that it’s bigger and heavier than most entry-level digital SLRs. Other issues are less forgivable including the early shutter penalty problem that jams up the camera if you press the shutter button too quickly after taking a picture. Very annoying."


Featuring
10.1-megapixel CCD captures enough detail for photo-quality 18 x 24-inch prints
12x image-stabilized optical zoom; 2.0-inch free-angle LCD display
Intelligent ISO Control (I.I.C.) reduces image blur from subject movement and low light
Records full-size movies in wide-aspect VGA (848 x 480) at 30 frames per second
Stores images on SD memory cards (32MB card included); powered by li-ion battery pack (battery and charger included)

FREE Online Photography Course

I just saw this item on Digg so thought I might feature it here. Jodies Coston's Free Online Photography Course



This course is free and open to the public. Lessons include the following:



Lesson 1:
Composition And Impact - It's A Beautiful Photograph, But Do You Know WHY It's Beautiful?

Lesson 2:
Aperture And Shutter Speed - How They Work Together.

Lesson 3:
The lens - choosing camera optics.

Lesson 4:
ISO, Grain, Transparency vs. Negative, Specialty Films

Lesson 5:
Fun Effects - Camera Filters, Soft Focus, Zooming And Panning

Lesson 6:
Landscape, Nature and Travel Photography

Lesson 7:
Portraits And Studio Lighting

Lesson 8:
Studio Lighting - Still Life and Product Photography

Lesson 9:
Tying It All Together

Lesson 10:
Special Requests

Jodie Coston is a freelance photographer who lives in northwestern Montana. She has exhibited her work in gallery exhibitions around the world and has won numerous international awards for her images.



Sabtu, 06 Januari 2007

Tips for Photographing Moving People

Two great articles can be found at Darren Rowse's digital Photography School website relating to photographing moving subjects-





The technical aspects of shooting motion are easy: a fast shutter speed (or the action or sports setting) will freeze motion, a slow one will introduce motion blur. Where you go from there makes the difference between a shot that merely documents and one that uses action to paint a scene or set a mood.



Up for some experimentation? We recommend you start with panning (as in golf, swing through the ball… er, click) and then try some nontraditional composition ideas. Our pals at DPS have a great post on each.



Mastering Panning
http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/mastering-panning-to-photograph-moving-subjects/



Nontraditional Motion Shot Composition
http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/leaving-space-behind-moving-subjects-composition/







Jumat, 15 Desember 2006

How to Photograph Christmas Lights


Eiffel Tower
Originally uploaded by Rick Blythe.

Here's a good tutorial on how to get the best results in your photos of Christmas Lights.  It's all about the balance, light balance that is-

When we talk about balancing light around here, it usually means balancing ambient with flash. But getting a good photo of holiday lights involves a different kind of light balancing: Continuous ambient with fading ambient.

You don't need a high-end camera for great results. You can use a very inexpensive digital camera and do just fine. You don't even need flash. It all comes down to what time of the day you shoot. And a couple of other little tricks.

The problem with 98% of the photos of Christmas lights is that most people wait until way too late to start shooting. After it gets completely dark, you can either have the lights or the surroundings properly exposed. But not both.

Conversely, if you were to shoot the lights in the middle of the day, they would not show up at all. The trick is find the sweet spot (actually there is a whole range of sweet spots) where the ambient light and the Christmas lights balance.

Understanding this will ensure that your photos are way better than those of your neighbors. After all, isn't that what Christmas lights are really about?

How to Do It:

1. Arrive early. The best time to shoot is before it gets totally dark. More specifically, get there before what looks like mix light to your eyes, too. Arriving around sunset will give you time to plan your shot before the good light happens. You may have to ask your subject to turn the lights on early - most people don't flip them on until the good light is already gone.

2. Compose your photo in such a way as to include as much sky as possible in the background. Shooting from a low position can help. Even better: If you have your choice of shooting direction, shoot into the afterglow of the evening sky.

3. Once you get your picture framed, set your camera's white balance for "tungsten," as if you were shooting indoors without flash. All of those little lights are tungsten balanced. As a bonus, the tungsten setting will turn your afterglow sky royal blue once your light balances out. The sky will look great - even if it is a cloudy evening. And your lights will gleam crystal white -- or whatever color they are supposed to be.

4. A light (or reflective) foreground, like snow, or a puddle (or the roof of a car) can give nice foreground interest. See what you can find.

5. Use a tripod or a beanbag to steady your camera. You'll be shooting in the range of a quarter second to a full second at twilight. If shooting with a phone or PDA, use both hands to brace the phone against something solid.

6. Now, wait for the light to happen.

Shoot a test shot every minute or so. At first, you'll be exposing for the sky and the lights will appear unimpressive. Check the back of your camera after each shot to watch the Christmas lights appear to "come up" as the ambient light level goes down. Your eye is constantly adjusting to compensate for the dropping light levels, but the changes will be happening nonetheless. Your camera will record them differently from the way that you eye sees them (you can see a much greater contrast range) so shoot and chimp.

Somewhere in between sunset and full dark, the Christmas lights and the ambient light will start to mix beautifully. You'll have about a 10-minute window which will give you a nice series of subtly different lighting variations. Remembering to keep your camera as still as possible, shooting lots of frames through the mix light. Ones and zeros are free, so don't be stingy. You do not have much time. You can delete the duds (or blurred photos) later.

Incidentally, this time of day is when the architectural photographers make the big bucks. And they are smart enough to tell everyone in their subject building to leave the lights on that night, too.

Your light will fade very quickly. You will know it is gone when your photos start looking like the "bad light" photos you used to take.

Now, put your camera away. You still have a few minutes to enjoy the scene with your eyes. The human eye has the remarkable ability to compress a large dynamic range into a scene your brain can process. Just relax, soak it in and think about all of the shopping you have left to do.

Hope enjoyed this tutorial on how to get the best results in your photos of Christmas Lights.

Selasa, 28 November 2006

Nikon DSLRs and Canon Compacts Sell Over Black Friday Weekend

by Karen M. Cheung
November 28, 2006 – Notoriously known as the busiest shopping days of the year between Black Friday and Cyber Monday, brick-and-mortar and online retailers alike cut prices and eliminated shipping charges sending consumers to the malls and to their computers in droves.  Among some of the best sellers this weekend were Nikon DSLRs and Canon point-and-shoots, according to retailers. 



With over 140 million shoppers hitting the stores on the Black Friday weekend and another 61 million customers shopping online on Monday, according to the National Retail Federation, consumers spent on average $360.15 this past weekend. 



Digital SLRs showed strong sales this holiday shopping weekend, said Ritz Camera Centers Inc. chairman David Ritz to Photo Marketing Association.  According to the company website, DSLRs made up three of the top ten best sellers at Ritz, including the Nikon D200, Nikon D40, and Sony A100.  The Nikon Coolpix S9 point-and-shoot was also popular.  “The biggest things are the new 10-megapixel models, at affordable price points,” said Ritz.



more...



Minggu, 26 November 2006

Digital Cameras Gift Guide 2006

If you are looking for the gift that lasts a lifetime in memories, Photoxels has a digital camera gift guide up, just in time for Christmas.  They have divided their list into three categories.



Point and Shoot (P&S)



As their name implies, these digital cameras are Point-and-Shoot simple to use. They have AUTO mode for general shooting, plus many Scene Modes to tackle special shooting situations.



Serious



When you are ready to go past point-and-shoot and want to learn more about how to use your digital camera to take great pictures, you need a digital camera that provides exposure flexibility and allows you to experiment.



Digital SLRs



For the best image quality and fast response times, nothing beats a digital SLR. Choose carefully and you can find one that will suit your specialized photographic needs -- especially with the addition of interchangeable lenses, filters, external flash units and other accessories you may never see offered for a non-DSLR camera.

You'll find the guide here.