Rabu, 30 Juni 2010

Types of Photo Printers

Photo printers are printers capable of printing images with or without a computer. Photo printers became popular with the coming of digital cameras. The major types of photo printers are ink-jet photo printers and the dye-sublimation photo printers.

Inkjet photo printer takes print by spraying dye-based or pigmented ink through a series of nozzles onto the photo paper. To produce high quality photos, some innovative inkjet photo printer manufacturers have come with additional colors such as light cyan and light magenta. With a resolution of 2880 dpi, most of the inkjet photo printers can produce sharp and pattern free photo prints.

HP, Canon, Kodak, and Epson are some of the famous brands of inkjet photo printers. Canon Pixma iP4000 and Epson Picture Mate are the most commonly used models of inkjet photo printers. On an average, a top quality inkjet photo printer will cost more than $150.

Dye sublimation printers, better known as dye-sub printers and thermal-dye printers, are the most popular photo printers after inkjet photo printers. In a dye-sublimation photo printer, the CMYK color ribbon is heated and the color is transferred to photo paper. The CMYK color scale includes cyan, magenta, yellow, and black. Dye sublimation photo printers have higher resolution than inkjet photo printers, and can create clear and high quality photos. When compared with inkjet photo printers, the dye sublimation photo printers are much faster. A good quality dye-sublimation photo printer will cost more than $150. Canon, Kodak, and Olympus are some of the popular brands of dye sublimation photo printers.

Other than ink-jet and dye-sublimation photo printers, laser photo printers and Fuji film PG-series are the commonly used types of photo printers. The Fuji film PG-series includes Fuji film's PG3500 and PG4000-II printers. These photo printers use a special type of dye-transfer process, which gives the photograph the look of traditional color prints.

Selasa, 29 Juni 2010

Pentax Optio W90 review

You have to admit, the Pentax Optio W90 digital camera just looks cool. But it's not all about good looks, this little gem can be operated not just in rain, but submerged to depths of up to 20 feet for as long as two hours, not to mention the HD video recording.  All at a really compelling price!  Read on…
"The Optio W90 is a versatile camera in every sense of the word, pairing a rugged, take-anywhere exterior with a wealth of functionality. A wide-angle lens helps capture more of that mountain vista, while underwater still and video modes boost your photography below the waves. The camera is missing some pieces, such as optical image stabilization, and it's HD video recording leaves a lot to be desired. Still, the camera does not want for features, leaving you plenty to play with when you're done subjecting it to nature's wrath. Better yet, the image quality's pretty good for a rugged camera, earning it a Dave's Pick in the Underwater/Tough, Macro and Travel categories."
Pentax Optio W90 digital camera
See the Imaging Resource full review.

Sigma 24-70mm lens review

A fast (f/2.8) standard zoom lens is one of the key products for many professional photographers and consequently such lenses are currently offered by all three full format DSLR manufacturers. With lenses that were, or are designed for 35mm film cameras, using them on cropped dSLR cameras has often shown excellent edge performance and this is again the case with this lens. Photozone has posted their full review of the Sigma AF 24-70mm.  Their verdict-

"Based on its sheer specs the Sigma 24-70/2.8 HSM EX is a very attractive lens. It promises professional grade results at a more attractive price point. It terms of mechanical build quality it is certainly up there with the best in its class with the exception of weather sealing maybe. The AF speed it a tad slower compared to Canon's USM but it's still comfortably fast. However, the key aspect is, of course, the optical performance.
At its optimal settings it is certainly a very sharp lens across the most of the image frame. The weakest focal length is at wide end. The center as well as the border quality is very high here but the extreme corners are soft from f/2.8 till f/8 and you need stop down to f/11 to get the best from the lens. The sweet spot is in the middle range especially when stopping down a little.. The corners are softer again at 70mm @ f/2.8 but decent beyond. Field curvature, a weakness of both pro grade Canon L standard zoom lenses, is not an issue at all. The vignetting and distortion characteristics are typical for a full format standard lens. Lateral CAs are very well controlled. The quality of the bokeh is quite disappointing but it's rarely really good in this class anyway. Bokeh fringing is very well controlled though.
So some aspects are really good whereas others may be less impressive but how does it compared to the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 USM L then ? The Sigma may have a slightly worse bokeh but it does not suffer from a very pronounced field curvature problem like the Canon so its field behavior is more predictable."

Sigma AF 24-70mm f/2.8 EX HSM DG lens

Canon Digital Camera

The Canon digital camera has been around for many years. The manufacturer makes the PowerShot ELPH cameras, the EOS models and the PowerShot models. Canon has produced over sixty different models for their digital camera line. The EOS models out number all the models. The EOS models are popular because of the technology used to manufacture them. The newest Canon EOS 1D Mark III Part 2 is said to be the best Canon camera in the world. The technology shows in the imaging, which is crisp, clear and sharp. The camera captures the natural tones without touch ups.

The Canon digital camera is popular with beginners and professionals. The compact PowerShot cameras offer many different features and have quality pictures just like some of the fancier models. The PowerShot cameras from Canon are affordable and for the most part, they are lightweight. The PowerShot ELPH models are equipped with many different features with different image capturing modes as well. The PowerShot models have the same high performance of a SLR camera, but is still has the convenience of being compact like the PowerShot point and shoot cameras. The EOS models boast many different features that the professional photographers appreciate.

The EOS Canon digital camera series has the SLR models and the 35mm SLR models. Whether you are a beginning user or a professional, these cameras will provide high quality images. The EOS SLR models include the Mark's and the Rebels, which are superior digital cameras with more features and image processing capabilities. The 35mm SLR models offer advanced features with incredible speed. The Canon EOS SLR and 35mm SLR models are larger than the PowerShot and PowerShot ELPH models. With the 35mm and EOS cameras, there are different lenses to use such as telephoto, wide angle and the standard zoom and macro lenses. The different lenses allow for different photo shooting capabilities.




While Canon is one of the best when it comes to high quality digital cameras, they're certainly not the only game in town. There are equal and better cameras around, you just need to know where to look.

Senin, 28 Juni 2010

Top 8 Budget Cameras for 2010

If you're shopping around for a new point and shoot camera you'll be interested in this new article at DCResource. They have compared eight budget digital cameras in one article. Remember that you should always try a camera out for yourself before you lay down your cash, whether it's $150 or $1500.
Here's the cameras tested:
  1. Canon PowerShot SD1300 IS Digital ELPH
  2. Kodak EasyShare M550
  3. Nikon Coolpix S3000
  4. Olympus FE-4030
  5. Panasonic Lumix DMC-FH3
  6. Pentax Optio H90
  7. Samsung SL600
  8. Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W330

Canon PowerShot SD1300 IS
What I liked:
  • Very good photo quality
  • Optical image stabilization
  • Stylish, compact metal body
  • Fastest startup time in the group
  • Nice LCD with good outdoor/low light visibility
  • AF-assist lamp, good low light focusing
  • Smart Auto mode selects a scene mode for you
  • Manual white balance and slow shutter speed controls
  • Well-implemented face detection, with handy face self-timer feature
  • Effective redeye removal in playback mode
  • Optional underwater case and external slave flash
What I didn't care for:
  • Some corner blurring and highlight clipping
  • Even with two anti-redeye systems, you still need to use the removal tool in playback mode
  • Flimsy door over battery/memory card compartment; cannot access while camera is on a tripod
  • Plastic tripod mount
  • Full manual on CD-ROM; manuals are not terribly user-friendly
  • No built-in memory or included memory card

Pentax Optio H90
What I liked:
  • Good photo quality; better than average high ISO performance
  • 5X, 28 - 140 mm lens in a uniquely styled and compact body
  • Auto Picture mode selects a scene mode for you
  • Lots of bells and whistles: instant panorama stitching, photo frames, virtual color filters
  • Manual focus and white balance
  • Customizable "green button"
  • Good face and smile detection
  • Can record up to ten minutes of continuous 720p video; in-camera video editing tool available
  • Large, detailed, and easy-to-read printed manual (woohoo!)
What I didn't care for:
  • Redeye a problem, even after digital correction
  • Some corner blurring and highlight clipping
  • Lens is on the slow side
  • No AF-assist lamp (though camera does okay in low light)
  • Below average battery life
  • Not great for night shots
  • Video quality isn't great
  • Poorly placed I/O port on bottom of camera
  • Plastic tripod mount and flimsy door over memory/battery compartment
Worth a Look

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FH3
What I liked:
  • Good photo quality in most situations
  • Optical image stabilization
  • 5X, 28 - 140 mm lens in a solid, well-designed metal body
  • Nice LCD has good outdoor and low light visibility
  • Intelligent Auto mode does just about everything for you
  • Tons of scene modes, some of which are quite unique (though require compromises in terms of image quality)
  • Fast autofocus, even in low light
  • Best continuous shooting mode in the group
  • Well-implemented face detection
  • Records about eight minutes of continuous 720p video
  • Best-in-class battery life; gets even better with optional battery
  • Metal tripod mount!
What I didn't care for:
  • Redeye a problem, even with digital correction feature
  • Some vignetting and corner blurring
  • Details tend to get smudged by noise reduction
  • Lens is very slow at the telephoto end (F6.9)
  • Not great for night shots or unusual lighting conditions
  • Lens moves through zoom range way too slowly
  • No USB 2.0 High Speed support
  • Flimsy door over memory card/battery compartment
  • Full manual on CD-ROM; manual is not user-friendly

Samsung SL600
What I liked:
  • Decent photo quality in good lighting
  • Nice value for the money
  • 5X, 27 - 135 mm zoom in a compact metal body
  • Generally snappy performance
  • Smart Auto mode selects a scene mode for you
  • Only camera to feature AE bracketing
  • Redeye not a problem
  • Handy Photo Guide shows you what settings to change
  • Cool self-portrait, Frame Assist, and motion timer features
  • Performed well in our night test, despite lack of manual shutter speed control
What I didn't care for:
  • Some detail smudging from noise reduction; images get noisy fairly quickly
  • Weak flash
  • Unimpressive burst mode
  • LCD on the grainy side
  • Stiff zoom controller
  • Flimsy door over memory card/battery compartment; cannot access compartment while using tripod
  • Plastic tripod mount
  • Very little built-in memory
  • No video output cable; accessories difficult to find
  • Full manual on CD-ROM; manual is not user-friendly

Nikon Coolpix S3000
What I liked:
  • Good photo quality in most situations; performs better than average at high ISOs
  • 4X zoom lens in the smallest and lightest body in the group
  • Fast startup, focus times (at wide-angle)
  • Auto Scene Selector picks a scene mode for you
  • Smart Portrait mode combines face, smile, and blink detection with skin softening
  • Help screens for all menu items
What I didn't care for:
  • Redeye a problem
  • Noise reduction smudges fine details
  • Telephoto/low light focusing not great
  • LCD has poor viewing angle
  • Not great for night shots
  • Below average battery life
  • Poorly located I/O port on bottom of camera
  • Plastic tripod mount
  • Full manual on CD-ROM
I'd Pass on These

Olympus FE-4030
What I liked:
  • Good photo quality at low ISOs
  • Ultra-wide, 26 - 105 mm zoom in a small package
  • iAuto mode features automatic scene selection
  • Quick AF performance when lighting is good
  • Handy preview of exposure compensation and white balance options in overlay menu
  • Fun "Magic Filters"
  • One-step image retouching and redeye removal in playback mode
  • Help screens for some menu items via dedicated button
What I didn't care for:
  • Detail smudging from strong noise reduction; traditional noise shows up early
  • Strong corner blurring
  • No AF-assist lamp; slow low light focusing
  • No burst mode
  • No custom white balance
  • Digital zoom cannot be turned off
  • Sluggish menu system
  • Below average video quality
  • Small buttons on back of camera
  • Flimsy door over memory card/battery compartment
  • Plastic tripod mount
  • Full manual on CD-ROM

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W330
What I liked:
  • Performs better than average at high ISOs (but isn't so hot at low sensitivities)
  • Ultra-wide, 26 - 105 mm zoom
  • Only camera in the group with a 3-inch LCD
  • Intelligent Auto mode picks a scene mode for you
  • Well-implemented face and smile detection
  • Support for both Memory Stick Pro Duo and SD/SDHC media
  • Optional underwater case
What I didn't care for:
  • Strong noise reduction smudges details
  • Redeye a problem
  • LCD has poor viewing angle
  • Lack of custom white balance leads to color casts in unusual lighting
  • Poor showing in night test
  • Weak flash
  • No AF-assist lamp; poor low light focusing
  • Below average battery life; slow battery charger included
  • Controls on back of camera are small; right thumb ends up leaving prints on LCD
  • Can't access memory card slot while camera's on tripod
  • Plastic tripod mount
  • Full manual on CD-ROM; manual not user-friendly

Kodak EasyShare M550
What I liked:
  • 5X, 28 - 140 mm zoom in compact metal body
  • Smart Capture mode selects a scene mode for you
  • Limited slow shutter speed control
  • Good face detection/recognition
  • Photos can be tagged for uploading/e-mailing at the push of a button
  • In-camera panorama stitching and video editing
What I didn't care for:
  • Details in photos have been flattened by noise reduction; images often have a fuzzy appearance, as well
  • Very noisy at higher ISOs
  • Redeye
  • Strong vignetting/fall-off at wide-angle; plenty of corner blurriness, as well
  • Lens on the slow side
  • No AF-assist lamp; poor low light focusing
  • Nearly useless burst mode
  • Video quality isn't great
  • No manual white balance
  • Small buttons on back of camera; other buttons are hard to distinguish
  • Below average battery life
  • Flimsy door over memory card/battery compartment; can't access compartment when using tripod
  • Plastic tripod mount
  • No A/V output cable included
  • Software and manual must be downloaded from Kodak's website; manual is easy-to-read, but not detailed

Film Verses Digital - What's the Difference Anyway?

In the old days, if your camera (35mm of course) had a battery die on you in the middle of an important shoot, you still had options. I mean after all; the only thing you needed the battery for was the light meter, it's not like your whole camera will shut down if you have no battery. Oh, I'm sorry if you are using all digital that might have stung just a little bit. But anyway, the old school rule was this: if you were using 100 speed film you would set your shutter speed to whatever the flash sync speed was (usually 1/60th or 1/125th of a second), set your f-stop to f-16, and bracket every shot.

To be honest; the reason you used the flash sync speed was because in most cases it was a mechanical speed, just in case you had one of those new fangled SLR's that use electronic shutter. But besides the obvious dependency on a charged battery, there are other differences between film and digital cameras.

If you have ever shopped for a digital camera you have no doubt heard one of the key buzz phrases, "35mm equivalent". This means that the optics are not exactly the same. Since the 35mm SLR camera has been the standard for the last 50 years, that's what they compare it to. The difference between the two is a ratio of 1:1.4. Simply put, a 35-200 zoom on a digital camera would be like having a 49-280 zoom lens on a traditional 35mm camera.

The main reason the optics are different is because the sensor (the device that actually reads the light) is also a different size. Film cameras use a film sensitive to light that is placed directly behind the lens. When the correct exposure is calculated, that image is literately burned into the film. Digital cameras, on the other hand use a sensor; that also sits behind the lens. This sensor is made up of millions of individual points that each represents 1 pixel. Once the sensor has gathered the information for each pixel it then transfers that data to a digital media card of some type (which can be used again and again.)

Generally digital cameras use sensors that are smaller than the 35mm film used in older cameras. The Depth of Field changes with the size of the sensor, the smaller the sensor the higher the depth of field. The reason they are made the sensor smaller is generally a cost factor to the manufacturer.

The sensor is the physical device that gathers information about the quality of light coming into the camera. The process or "how" it goes about gathering that information is referred to as "metering. The human eye can see the world around it with a range of about 16 f-stops; camera meters on the other hand, only have a range of 5 f-stops at any given time. This is why camera meters are calibrated for "mid range" exposures of 18% gray, because 90% of the time that is as close as we will get to what the human eye can do. It's not a fault that the camera can not see as good as you do, it's simply a fact of life.

There are basically only three types of metering systems. They are:

A) Spot Metering

B) Center-Weighted Metering

C) Matrix Metering

Spot metering as the name indicates only reads a small spot or portion of the overall image (usually 1% to 3%). This type of metering is useful in any situation where the lighting is extreme. Backlit subjects, macro shots, or even pictures of the moon can benefit from this type of metering. This type of metering is usually found on the more costly upper end cameras.

Center-Weighted metering averages the overall scene with an emphasis on the center area of the frame. Usually this type of meter bases its reading with 75% of the light hitting center frame and 25% for everything else. It assumes that most people place their subject dead center, most of the time. It is worth noting that most center weighted systems have a greater sensitivity in the bottom half of the frame; to avoid an overly contrasting sky from throwing off the readings. This type of system is by far the most common used in digital cameras today. Even the higher end Digital SLR's use this as their default setting.

Matrix Metering splits your image up into anywhere from 3 to 16 metering zones and evaluates the different zones to come up with one over all reading. In this process of evaluation it takes into account factors like: subject size, position, distance, point of focus, over all lighting, color and more. This system uses a microchip which has been exposed to thousands of different picture-taking situations. It is by far the most complex and the most accurate metering system to date. It is also usually found on the higher end Digital SLR's.

I have used the word "digital" several times, but do not be deceived. These are the same type of metering systems used in traditional film cameras as well. The only other known way of reading light has to do with "reflected light" verses "surface light". Most meters in the camera are reading reflected light (IE the light that is reflected off the main subject and reaches the camera.) Every so often you will see someone with a hand held light meter that will go right up to the subject and read the light that falls on the surface of that subject. Some photographers still debate which way is more accurate. The idea of the "Spot Metering" should accomplish the same thing, but for many photographers (fashion photographers in particular), the separate meter seems more standard.

With these points in mind, consider not only the differences but the similarities as well. All of us have our favorites; Canon, Nikon, Kodak. Some choose digital, some choose film. The things to remember are what we all need to get a great shot. Things like composition, leading lines, framing, and the rule of thirds are much more important to our success as great photographers than the physical tools we use to accomplish a great shot. On the other hand, knowing what your particular camera or metering system can or can not do, let's you know if you have the right tool for the job.

Minggu, 27 Juni 2010

Converting 35mm Slides to Digital Images

Converting 35mm slides to digital images is the first step in the preservation and the restoration of your memories. The options are almost unlimited when it comes to converting 35mm slides to digital images.

The most important thing is to do the conversion and do it yesterday. Once your 35mm slides have been converted to digital images, you have stopped the deterioration in it's tracks. From that point on, there is no rush to do anything. It is recommended that you save the images to CD in case you have any issues with your hard drive.

When you look at your slides you will be able to see if there is dust or finger prints on them. If they look clean I suggest you leave them alone and scan them as is. If there are particles that you could not see, the scanner's software should have a function that will fix minor scratches or dust. If you see a lot of dust, use an anti-static cloth to clean them up before you scan them.

Once you have finished converting 35mm slides to digital images, use the scanners software to enhance colors, remove scratches and or red-eye before you save the digital images. Now you have a solid base from which to work. You can take the slides into photo shop and do more detail work if you need to, depending on how much each slide needs.

Once you have finished converting your 35mm slides to digital images, you can then go to the next phase and decide how you want to view them. If your only desire is to view them on your computer, then a CD data disc is all that you have to make so that you can view them on other computers and protect them from a major computer malfunction.

If you want to take it to the next step after you are finished converting your 35mm slides to digital images, you can create your own, custom slide show on DVD. The opportunities are limitless. You can enhance your images by using slow moves, blowups, and transitions between shots. Titles are another option that will enhance your slide show while clearing up names, locations and time lines.

Adding music to your slide show is another option that personalizes your slide show while making it much more enjoyable to watch. If you can get the music off the internet, or a CD, you can easily put it into your slide show. These are just a few of the options available to you when you decide to present your slides as a slide show, but first you have to begin by converting 35mm slides to digital images.

Jumat, 25 Juni 2010

Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and Manual Mode

Digital photography has given almost anyone with a camera the potential to become a creative photographer. These days even compact cameras offer features that once were only found on 'serious' SLR cameras.

The trouble is, most people who have grown up with point-and-shoot cameras have very little idea what these features are all about. After buying a good digital camera with the best intentions, they soon give up and switch to automatic.

Are the settings on your camera really so hard to understand? Of course not, but it can seem that way at the start, especially if they are not explained to you in simple terms you can understand.

The two settings you need to understand here are Aperture and Shutter Speed. Aperture is the size of the hole that lets the light in for your photo. The larger the hole, the brighter the exposure. The shutter speed is the length of time given to each exposure. Slower shutter speeds allow more light, resulting in a brighter exposure. By finding the right balance of these two settings, you and/or your camera control whether your photo is overexposed, underexposed, or just right.

With your camera set to Manual mode, you control both settings. If this seems daunting, you can start with the semi-automatic functions, Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority.

How do the semi-automatic functions work? They allow you to choose one setting (either aperture or shutter speed), while the camera chooses the other. That way you can be a little bit creative, but with the safety net of knowing your camera will make sure your exposure is correct. It is a good halfway point between automatic and manual.

Let's start with Aperture Priority. This function allows you to set the aperture on your camera; the camera chooses the shutter speed for you.

The aperture controls depth of field (the area in front and behind the main subject that will be in focus). When you set a wide aperture, you reduce the depth of field; when you choose a smaller aperture, you will have a greater depth of field.

Obviously when you change the aperture, you change the level of light in your exposure. The camera will compensate by adjusting the shutter speed. So when you operate your camera in Aperture Priority mode, you have control over the depth of field, but your camera still makes sure your exposure is correct.

The catch here is, you still need to keep track of what your shutter speed is doing. If it falls to a very slow speed, you need to use a tripod to eliminate camera vibrations.

How about Shutter Priority? Here you set the shutter speed, and the camera balances the exposure by setting the aperture. This is a great system if you are working with moving subjects. Sometimes you may want to freeze a moving subject with a fast shutter speed, or create a motion effect with a slower shutter speed. Meanwhile the camera compensates for the changes in shutter speed by adjusting the aperture.

Shutter priority may be a better option for some beginners. It is much easier to stay aware of when to use your tripod. Also, when your camera manages the aperture, it controls the depth of field, which is not usually as critical as the shutter speed. You may not always get exactly what you want, but you won't get any catastrophic failures.

These two semi-automatic functions appear to offer you the best of both worlds. You get to be a bit creative, and try out your photography skills, while your camera's high-tech hardware makes sure you don't overexpose or underexpose the photo. So far, it sounds perfect.

So why should you learn to operate your camera in Manual mode? The answer is simple.

Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority both work on the assumption that your camera's reading of the exposure is always correct. Unfortunately, that is not always true. In fact, sometimes you have to be smarter than your camera.

Imagine you are photographing a flower in the sun, but the background is in the shade. This simple situation can be all it takes to confuse your camera. It may expose for the background, brightening the exposure and totally overexposing the flower.

In this situation, semi-automatic settings will not solve the problem. You could reduce the brightness of the exposure by (for example) reducing the size of the aperture. The camera would simply adjust the shutter speed to compensate, maintaining what it believes to be the correct exposure.

What you need to do is switch the camera to Manual. Then you can adjust both settings and create an image that is slightly darker, bringing your flowers into perfect exposure.

This is not just a hypothetical exercise. Situations arise all the time that require you to out-think your camera. If you understand how to operate your manual settings, you can take control, and you won't be left blaming your camera for 'the one that got away.'

Kamis, 24 Juni 2010

The Biggest Power Consumers in Digital Cameras


Image : http://www.flickr.com


Like other portable electronic devices digital cameras rely on batteries to power up their electronics and mechanical elements. Although battery technologies have improved a lot in the last few years they are still very limited in their energy capacity.

Understanding what elements of your digital camera consume the most power can help you to understand why you run out of battery so fast and to conserve battery power in the future. In this article we will list these power hungry components. Other articles explain how you can optimize usage to preserve power.

Your digital camera is built from many components. Some of them are electronic like the chipsets that run the camera and carry out all the wonderful automatic features. Some of them are mechanical like the motors that move the lenses to achieve focus or change the zoom factor. And some of them are optical like the lenses and the mirror in SLR cameras.

Every digital camera components consumes different amounts of energy. Some components consume very little power while others consume a lot. Digital cameras include smart electronics that optimize power consumption but for the most part power consumption depends on how the photographer uses the camera and its features.

Here is a list of three components that consume the most energy in a typical digital camera:

LCD screen: One of the great features of digital cameras is the ability to view photos immediately after they are taken using a small color and bright LCD screen built into the camera. This allows photographer to review the composition and decide if the photo is good enough or if they need to take more photos. Before the digital era photographers had to wait until the film was developed in order to review their photos. The digital era shortened this wait time to virtually zero. LCD screens are also used as convenient view finders - when taking a photo you can look at the LCD and see exactly how the photo will look like. Pressing the shutter button actually shoots the photo. The problem with color and bright LCD screens is that they consume a lot of energy. This is the reasons why all digital cameras turn off the LCD screen automatically if not used for a certain amount of time.Motors: Digital cameras include moving components. These are mostly optical elements that move in order to focus on objects or change zoom factors. Digital cameras include motors that move those elements as needed to achieve the photographer desired results. For example when auto focusing on objects in the photo frame the digital camera built in computer sends commands to the motors to move the lenses back and forth until focus is achieved. Motors are mechanical components and consume a lot of power when used. Furthermore the bigger and heavier the lens and optical elements that the motor have to move (for example big zoom lenses) the more energy is needed for the motors to complete their task.Flash: Flash is used when shooting photos in dark conditions or in conditions where shadows can appear on the objects. Flash is an electro-optical component that works by charging energy into a special electronic component and then discharging this energy in a short time as light energy. There are many types of flash units the bigger and longer distance that a flash supports the more energy it consumes each time it is used.

Canon PowerShot S90 Review

The Canon PowerShot S90 Review is currently the world's smallest and lightest pocket-sized digital camera that shoots raw. It has an almost 4X zoom (28–105mm equivalent) and has a remarkable f/2 as its widest aperture at the wide end of its range. There is, of course, optical image stabilization, a full 3" LCD screen, as well as a built-in pop-up flash. DPreview have a new review up of the Canon PowerShot S90 here. They say:
“Photographers looking for a serious, pocket-friendly, compact camera haven't had a lot to choose from, and the S90 offers the first real competition to Panasonic's LX3, the success of which almost certainly led Canon to revive the long-running and much missed 'S' series. I may not have liked it when I first used it, but I soon found myself picking it up every time I went out the door.
It is, above all else, a great walk around camera, capable of results (particularly at lower ISO settings) that most serious photographers would be more than happy with. The control system encourages photographic experimentation (unlike so many compacts, which simply make it too painful to work manually), but the automatic systems are also reliable - and intelligent - enough to give you great results if you prefer to just 'point and shoot'. The tiny body might not make for particularly good handling, but it's small enough to carry anywhere and the image quality it produces rarely disappoints.”
Canon PowerShot S90
Canon S90 Features
  • Lens Control Ring
  • 10 million pixels sensor
  • RAW shooting
  • Fast f/2.0-4.9 maximum aperture range
  • Lens covering the classic 28-105mm range
  • Dual Anti-Noise System (high sensitivity sensor and Digic 4 noise reduction)
  • 3.0 inch PureColor II LCD
  • Optical Image Stabilization
  • Smarter Scene Detection
  • Low Light mode
  • DIGIC 4 image processor
  • HD output

Rabu, 23 Juni 2010

Underwater Digital Camera

An underwater digital camera can be used by people who want to film or take photos while they are underwater. There are different models of digital cameras that allow people to take both films and photos. Of course, an underwater camera is more expensive than a standard one because it also has more features. Just think that such camera is specially designed in order to protect all its features. You can also call it water resistant camera.

If you are interested in buying an underwater camera you have to know that this type of cameras can be found in different specialized stores but you can also order it directly from different manufacturers. If you do not have enough money to purchase an underwater camera you can rent one from one of the companies that supplies underwater equipment to people who work in this area.

As I said above, an underwater camera has some special features. Next I will tell you what makes it so special. The first important feature is represented by the fact that it has a special housing that keeps the digital camera safe while it is used in the water. Another important feature is that some underwater cameras have some special lenses that are perfectly working in water. Just think that these lenses are able to resist the fog that can usually be found underwater. There are some models for this type of digital cameras that have some over sized handles. In this way people can easy handle the digital camera when they want to take underwater photos.

I am sure that you already know that normally, digital cameras can store pictures digitally. So, if you want to ensure that you will have enough memory to save all the pictures that you are going to take in the water, it is recommended to purchase an extra memory card or a flash drive. After you will take the desired pictures, you just have to transfer them to your computer. By using your PC or your laptop you will be able to review and edit your pictures.

When choosing the underwater camera you have to consider that there are 2 types of cameras that are available on the market. The first one is represented by SLR (single lens reflex) cameras and the latter by "digicam" cameras. These two basic types of digital cameras look exactly the same, but they have different features. For example, a SLR underwater camera has more features than a normal one. This means that if you are interested in purchasing a digital camera for professional shootings, it is recommended to opt for a SLR one.

Samsung NX10 Review

The Samsung NX10 is a DSLR camera features 14.6 megapixels APS-C size CMOS sensor, HD Video Recording, Dust removing and image sensor cleaning, ISO 100-3200, 3fps continuous shooting, Built-in Electronic Viewfinder with 100% coverage, and a 3.0″ OLED screen. This unit also utilizes dust protection using super sonic vibrations at 60,000 times a second to keep the sensor clean between lens changes. Steves Digicams has just completed their review of the NX10 here. Here's a sample:
"Bottom line - As you can see from reading the above, I enjoyed using the NX10 very much. This is a powerful camera that offers excellent image quality, robust performance, loads of creative outlets with various exposure modes options, and great HD video; all packed into a compact frame. At one point when shooting with the 30mm F2.0 pancake lens, I actually put this camera in my cargo pants pocket without a problem (I'll add that this was a baggy pocket). With a street price of $649 US or less, I feel the Samsung NX10 offers a great value and highly recommend this camera to anyone looking for a capable EVIL camera. Be sure to check out our reviews of other EVIL type cameras, like the Olympus E-PL1 and Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1."
NX10 Features:
  • 14.6 Megapixel Image Sensor
  • NX Lens Mount
  • High-quality electric viewfinder
  • 3.0-inch AMOLED Display
  • 10 Shooting Modes
  • 9 Scene Modes
  • RAW image file saving (RAW+JPEG available)
  • Shutter speeds of 1/4000sec. ~ 30sec.
  • 2 optical image stabilization modes when using OIS lenses
  • USB/AV port for Connecting to T.V.s, Computers, and Printers
  • Port for Remote Shutter Release
  • 10 white balance Settings
  • AdobeRGB color space
  • Continuous mode shooting at up to 3fps @ full resolution
  • Burst mode captures 1.4M images at up to 30fps
  • Spot, Center Weighted and Multi. Metering Settings
  • Built-in pop-up flash
  • Super Sonic Sensor Cleaning
  • Powered by Rechargeable Lithium Ion Battery
  • Port for Optional External Power Supply
  • HDMI compatible
  • SD/SDHC card slot
  • Li-ion battery and charger

Selasa, 22 Juni 2010

Exhibiting Your Prints in a Gallery For the First Time

I was once asked by a friend of a friend to display my pictures in an upcoming exhibition. The organiser of the event had seen my work and liked it, and thought it would be ideal for the theme of the exhibition. It was also an opportunity for upcoming artists to get exposure.

When I first found out, I was in an initial state of shock, then excitement came over me and then suddenly fear started to set in. As it was my first time displaying my works in a gallery. I was not prepared, and I had no idea what to expect. The event organiser wanted to meet me to discuss the event and select prints from my portfolio. Luckily, I had put together my portfolio some time back so it came to be useful when called upon. Fortunately, the meeting went well with the event organiser. We agreed on which prints to use in the gallery and the commission the gallery would take on each print sold.

Shortly after the meeting, I was introduced by the event organiser to an artist that was currently exhibiting their work in the gallery. She mentioned, this was a good opportunity for me to ask the artist lots of questions on what to expect and how to prepare myself. The artist, a well known and established painter had displayed their work in galleries across the world. The artist, gave me one of the most important pieces of advice I still use today. He said "Always believe in your work". He went on and said, you will get positive and negative criticism from people. Criticism is sometimes important and sometimes unimportant. If you believe in your work, this will help you shrug off negative criticism. Everyone is entitled to their opinions and everyone has a different view on a Art. I thanked him for his time and advice, and left with a new outlook on the event.

I have always been someone who cringed or felt uncomfortable when someone complimented my work. I would always say "Thank you" politely and then try and change the subject or conversation. I already had in mind the type of questions I would have to answer. The things I feared most was dealing with negative comments and having to respond to them.

One of my first challenges in preparation for the exhibition, was to find a good printer and also someone to frame my prints. I had already agreed we would use 20 x "A3" prints for the exhibition. Most of my art work was a mixture of 35mm colour/b&w film and digital images.

With this in mind, I shopped around until I found an established printer with a good reputation for creating exhibition prints. To reduce costs, I would do most of the re-touching of the images myself. This reduced the overall cost considerably or get charged by the hour. Although, in hindsight, I would have preferred if this was done by a Professional. As the time spent on re-touching never ending.

During this time I was going back and forth to the printers to review print samples before he made the final prints. As a complete novice, some of my images I had never printed before or printed to that size. So this was quite a challenge, as I did not want to appear to fussy to the printer to p... him off. But I wanted to be satisfied with the final result. The final prints were made and I was happy with the end results. Seeing the final prints, the reality of the exhibition started to kick in, knowing the event was just over a month away.

The printer, recommended a friend of his who was a good picture framer, in his own words "would not cost me the earth". Based on his recommendation, I went to see the picture framer with my prints. We discussed frame sizes, the style of frames to use, borders for mounting, reflective glass or not etc. Whilst this was all taking place, I collected some flyers from the event organiser and started self promoting the upcoming event. By leaving flyers in shops, local businesses, and spreading the word through friends, emails, and Facebook etc. I also made several visits to the gallery leading up to the event to decide on where to hang my prints.

The opening night of the exhibition would be a private view and a chance for the public to meet the artists. Therefore, the artists would have to provide bottles of wine etc. for those attending the private view.

On the night of the private view. I turned up early before the guests arrived and brought my portfolio, together business cards and a book for guests to leave their comments. Also, a price list of the prints, coupled with a written overview of my work on display.

Overall, the private view was a success. I made some good contacts and got a lot of good reviews from those that attended on the night. The exhibition would continue for a month, and during that time I made several visits to review the comments book and check for any sales. I sold several prints during the exhibition and landed a some paid jobs off the event.

Looking back on the event. I know now there is a distinction between Art and commercial interests. As an upcoming artist you need the exposure and your first break. It is important to remember galleries are out to maximise their profit, plus they have a reputation to keep. So be weary of the galleries commission they will charge you for each sale of your works. Also, galleries have a tendency to choose the artists work to display, that they feel bodes well with other artists in the gallery or the theme of the exhibition.

Some artists host their own viewings by hiring galleries to host their event. This way, the artist takes a larger percentage of sales.

Also it is worth keeping an up to date portfolio of your work, as this shows potential clients your various styles, and helps you land future work.

It is important to take into account when pricing your work the commission charge per sale, printing/framing costs and the other additional costs you may incur. I found the comments book was great for feedback from visitors to the gallery. Preparation is key, as you want your first exhibition to be a success.

And last but not least enjoy yourself!!!

Canon PowerShot SX210 IS

Canon PowerShot SX210 IS is a 14.1-megapixel compact camera features 14x optical zoom with Optical Image Stabilizer, HD shooting capability at 720p with stereo sound plus HDMI output, DIGIC 4 Image Processor, Fisheye Effect, Servo AF/AE continues to focus and track subject, Face Detection Self-timer, and a 3.0-inch wide PureColor System LCD.

Canon PowerShot SX210

PhotoReview has a new review posted of the Canon PowerShot SX210 here. They say-

Buy this camera if:
- You're looking for a well-built, long-zoom digicam for travel.
- You'd enjoy plenty of user-adjustable controls and image stabilization.
- You want to shoot widescreen high-definition video clips with stereos soundtracks and are happy with 720p resolution.
- You're happy to use the monitor for shot composition.

Don't buy this camera if
:
- You want to shoot raw files (the SX210 IS is restricted to JPEG capture).
- You require fast response times.

Micromax Q7 review

Micromax Q7
Micromax Q7

Micromax Q7 is a continuation of EZPAD series of Micromax. After recieving very good user feedbacks, micromax released this version of phone adding new features like WIFI.

The major advantage of this phone is WIFI. For price band of around 4800 Indian rupees it is a good option.

Below are the specifications of this phone.
Number of SIM:It is dual sim phone.
Form Factor:     Bar Style
Band  :   EDGE/GSM 900/1800MHz
Weight :    100g
Dimensions:     110mmx59mmx10.7mm
Color Options:     black/silver
Display :    262K Color QVGA Screen
Camera :    2.0 MP
Music:     Multi Format Music PlayerMusic Player (MP3 / AMR / MIDI / WAV)
Video Player:     Yes(AVI/3GP/MP4)
Phonebook Memory:     1000
SMS Memory     1000
Internal Memory     78MB
Expandable Memory     MIcroSD (upto 4GB)
Battery Type     Li-ion 800mAh
Talk Time     Up to 4.5 hours
Standby Time     Up to 6 days
Messaging:     Email,SMS /MMS/EMS
Connectivity     EGPRS/WAP/MMS,Bluetooth(A2DP),WiFi
FM Radio: Yes, Sterio
Hands free: Yes.3.5 mm Jack
OS:Java
Preinstalled browser: Yes. Opera mini.
Chat client: Nimbuzz

For recent reviews and  new releases on Micromax visit Micromax mobile reviews

Tags: Micromax q7, Micromax mobile, Micromax Mobile Review, Mobile reviews, Micromax, Micromax Games, Micromax Operating System, Micromax price, Micromax Price in India,  Micromax India.

Senin, 21 Juni 2010

Photography Basics Camera Settings - How to Use Different Camera Modes in Your Photos

Before taking great photos, you need to familiarize yourself with your camera and learn how to control your camera exposure, use different camera modes, flash and choose between optical or digital zoom.

Most digital cameras have both optical and digital zoom capabilities. Optical zoom is the camera lens which brings an object closer in focus while digital zoom uses in-camera software to digitally enlarge a portion of the object's image without necessarily using the zoom lens.

Optical zoom is better for digital photography since digital zoom only enlarges the image surrounding using a portion of the image to enlarge back to full image size. This will normally cause loss of quality making your photos look blurry. In case you want to enlarge or crop your image, use a software program such as photoshop installed on your pc, to get better control over how your final image will look.

Most digital cameras allow you to set the camera when to start using digital zoom and when not to. Constantly reading your camera manual will also come in handy giving you enough time to concentrate on your image composition, background, and your subject.

It is very vital to learn how and when to use and control your camera flash more especially when using a digital camera, since most digital cameras have an in-built flash.

Flash feature often comes in handy during bright sunlight and helps eliminate dark shadows under the eyes and chin. It also emphasizes your focus object thus making it stand out from the background.

Turning your camera flash on, helps illuminate your object in a shade, when it is backlit, or where there's water reflecting sun's rays on your focus object. Such bright conditions often darkens your object's surface.

Always consider playing with your camera modes since most digital cameras have macro modes which helps with close-up shots of smaller objects or flowers. When using a macro mode setting, ensure that your camera is able to focus on your object before pressing the shutter button fully.

Digital cameras have different modes with tailor made settings suited for each camera. Feel free to use preset scene modes of your camera.

Nikon 18-200mm VR II lens review

The Nikon DX 18-200mm VR II is an 11.1x super-zoom lens designed for Nikon's range of DX format DSLRs. Announced in July 2009, it's the update to one of the most popular lenses for the Nikon system. The Nikkor DX 18-200mm VR II is designed as a powerful all-round lens with an 11.1x super-zoom range. With the 1.5x field-reduction factor of Nikon's DX-format DSLRs, the DX 18-200mm VR II delivers equivalent coverage of 27-300mm, taking you from wide angle all the way to pretty respectable telephoto coverage.
An updated review for this updated lens has been posted over at Camera Labs. They say of the 18-55mm zoom-
"The Nikkor DX 18-200mm VR II may only represent a minor update over the original model – indeed it's essentially just the addition of a zoom lock switch – but this doesn't diminish its highly compelling nature in use. You get the convenience of an enormously flexible zoom range covering wide-angle to serious telephoto in a single lens, and as discussed above, Nikon's included a number of classy aspects including quiet focusing and a rubber ring on the mount for some environmental sealing.

So while the Nikkor DX 18-200mm VR II is without a doubt the classiest super-zoom lens for cropped-frame cameras, it's also one of the most expensive, so you have to think very carefully about the value of convenience, not to mention the quality level you're after. If you're happy to carry two or more lenses and swap them as required, then we'd recommend complementing an existing general-purpose lens with a telephoto zoom. You'll enjoy better quality and a potentially longer total range while saving money at the same time."
Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S ED VR II Telephoto Zoom Lens

Minggu, 20 Juni 2010

Pentax Cameras - An Exclusive Name in the World of Photography

I have always had a weak corner in my heart in regard to the Pentax cameras. They are an absolute value for my money. They are extremely efficient in taking high resolution photographs in any given light condition. Whether you are taking a picture in a dimly lit room or in a playground under the bright sun, or during the night in your balcony, you can be rest assured that the quality of your picture will be perfect. I have done many experiments with these cameras in various locations and always found to be pretty productive in tackling the mood of any surrounding.

These cameras are sold at various big shops dealing in electronic and optical products and services. The whole sellers are always there to provide you with nice bargains generally tailored with lucrative discount offers and some similar kinds of deals. But more importantly, these sets are reliable enough to be become your lovely companions for a very long term.

I can cite my case when I went to a big dealer to purchase a camera from this particular brand. There were many on the racks. The Pentax cameras were kept at one side, separated from others, that markedly conveyed the message about their exclusivity in the world of photography. I made it a point that to choose a set that would comply with my basic demands of amateur photography. I want to say a point here, that there are several ranges and not every range of products is for every photographer. There are more advanced camera sets from Pentax for the professional photographers that constitute more detailed features and a hoard of applications.

For people like us, who consider photography a simple pastime to nurture our own interest in this exciting activity, a decent camera set from the house of Pentax with the basic features and nice stylish looks is more than enough.

It is very essential to test the every possible feature and other related details of your camera shot when you are doing the selection in the shop. It is true that the Pentax cameras are extremely reliable and give almost no space for complaints to the proud owners. But in y view, it is better to be on the safer side by testing the features of the cameras and ensure that the set that you are planning to buy will not give you any unnecessary hassles.

In the conclusion, all I want to say that I am really very satisfied with the performance of both the sets of Pentax cameras that I own, and thinking of buying the third one very soon.

Sabtu, 19 Juni 2010

Photographing Bands

I love this shot I got today of the singer for The Diodes, a Toronto punk band that had minor success in the late seventies. The trick is to be patient. Keep your camera trained on the lead singer and wait for those crescendos. Then PRESS!! It takes practice for sure to get photos that aren't blurred or ones where you've missed the timing.

Take a lot of photos when shooting concerts. You're going to throw away most, but it'll help you learn what works and what doesn't.

3-Plus Megapixel Digital Camera Model


Image : http://www.flickr.com


With a 3.3-megapixel digital camera you have really crossed over into the realms of professional-quality image-making. Cameras in this category are capable of producing good-quality ink-jet prints up to A4 size, or even greater. If work requires the type of reproduction quality demanded by a magazine, you can enlarge to A5 size; with non-critical subjects, or certain "artistic" treatments, such as graininess, blur, or other distortion-type filters, then you can safely enlarge prints to A4 and greater, since these treatments disguise any slight imperfections in image quality.

If your camera is intended for professional use, then ruggedness and reliability should be key factors in your decision-making process. In these respects, cameras in this class are generally built to a higher quality and with better electronics and a wider range of features than cameras of lesser image resolution. But bear in mind that these cameras not only cost more to purchase in the first place, but they are also costlier to maintain. This is due to the fact that their larger files require more storage space (images with more pixels take up more memory space) and larger files take more time to work with than smaller ones. So, opt for one of these higher-resolution cameras only if you really need the extra quality.

Note that some cameras give images containing more pixels than the specification of the camera seems able to produce. If so, these figure have been arrived at by adding pixels through a process of "interpolation" and may not represent any true improvement in the detail captured by the camera.

When deciding on a suitable camera, check that the connection is suitable for your computer. As was mentioned earlier, USB is faster than serial, while FireWire is better than either. In addition, check the type of battery: Li-ion or NiMH types are better than NiCd.

There is a growing number of single lens reflex (SLR) designs in this class of digital cameras, but not all of them allow for interchangeable lenses. If your photographic work is likely to demand that you use a wide range of lenses, make sure any camera you are thinking of buying is suitable.

Jumat, 18 Juni 2010

Best DSLR Camera For Beginners - Nikon D5000 Entry Level DSLR Review

Have you read camera reviews until your eyes are crossed, and still you waver? How do you pick the best DSLR camera for beginners? As you read every word of this article, keep in mind that there are only a few factors that you need to concentrate on in order to make the right choice for you.

The factors that should be the deciding ones for you are:


Image quality

Ease of use for a beginner

Are all the features you want included

Ratings of current users

The first three factors can be easily found by checking a couple of the more reliable camera review sites. Two excellent sources are dpreview.com and imaging-resource.com.

The final factor can be checked by going to the places where cameras are sold, such as amazon, B & H Photo, or Adorama, where there are reviews by those who have purchased the cameras. Camera buyers are extremely honest in their opinions. After all, what do they have to gain by fabricating a false review?

How does the Nikon D5000 entry level DSLR stack up?

First, the image quality is excellent. DPReview has given its highest rating to the Nikon D5000 - "Highly Recommended" - with this one recommendation. You should shoot your pictures in RAW mode rather than in JPEG mode. This is because the in-camera software processes the images without as much sharpening as Canon's Rebel T1i. To the average viewer, this would not be obvious without it being pointed out. Suffice it to say that the Nikon D5000 produces excellent image quality.

Second, the ease of use of the D5000 is also excellent. The camera controls are well placed and easy to navigate. They are quite intuitive even for a beginning DSLR user.

The third factor could be the deciding one. Nikon has included two very desirable features that are not on the less expensive Nikon D3000 or the Canon Rebel XSi. The first is HD video similar to the more professional Nikon models. This being said, if you are buying a camera expecting the same video capabilities as a dedicated camcorder, you will need to look elsewhere. But the quality of the D5000 video is excellent when compared to other DSLRs.

Finally, checking the users' ratings of the Nikon D5000 on Amazon shows that consumers are very impressed with their purchase. They have given the D5000 an average rating of 4.13 out of 5. And at B & H Photo, the users are just as happy with their purchase. They have rated the D5000 at 4.25 out of 5. (These ratings would actually be higher, except there was a recall of the initial release due to a faulty chip, but that has been resolved.)

Rabu, 16 Juni 2010

Background


Chickadee
Originally uploaded by Rick Blythe.
Here is a photo I took in my backyard with a 70-300mm zoom. It's an Ok shot of a bird, not special in any way, just a snapshot really.

What I would comment about this photo though is the background. When I was framing this photo my attention was very much focused on the bird. They move very quickly and I missed many shots before I got this one. But here's the point. I knew I had to un-clutter my background or else the photo would definitely be one for the recycle bin.

By consciously remembering to watch my background I got a keeper. The background in this shot is the distant and non-distracting brick of my home. Perfect.

Selasa, 15 Juni 2010

All Those Megapixels - A Digital Camera Resolution Comparison


Image : http://www.flickr.com


Are you thinking of buying a new digital camera? Are you confused by all the choices in camera resolution? Is the megapixel rating the most important factor you should consider in buying a digital camera? How many megapixels are enough? Is there such a thing as too many megapixels? How do megapixels and digital camera resolution compare to film camera resolution?

To put it simply, resolution is the amount of detail that your digital camera records of an image. A digital image is made up of pixels. For digital cameras, the number of pixels is measured just like your computer monitor. As digital camera resolutions have gotten higher, w will e now multiply the horizontal and vertical values for one total value, which is usually rounded out to the megapixel count. Some of the first digital cameras had resolution of 480 x 640 pixels. This is the same number of pixels in the computer monitor standard VGA. Multiplying 480 x 640 would end up with a resolution of about .3 megapixels. This was touted by the digital camera industry as photo-quality, but it is far from it. Most web cams support this resolution.

Next up in computer monitor resolution is SVGA or 600 x 800. This works out to about .5 megapixels. Still not there.

Currently, one of the most popular computer monitor settings is 1024x768. This is still less than one megapixel, it is also the resolution that we first saw consumer digital cameras at. This is also a common resolution for video projectors. The one megapixel digital cameras have a resolution of 1280 by 960. If you were to make a 4 x 6 print from an image this size, it might compare in quality to that of an old 110 camera, or APS camera.

When we reach the two megapixel mark, or resolution of 1600 x 1200, you can get a fairly nice print. This gives you a print size of 4 x 6 at not quite 300 dpi. However, when you make a photographic print much larger than 4 x 6, you'll be able to see the individual pixels or notice the lack of detail.

In a digital photographic print, 300 dots per inch is considered the standard for small prints. Some photographic printers print at less than 250 dpi. Some a little bit more than 300 dpi. While there is little bit of leeway here, digital prints at 300 dpi will appear to have the same detail that a print made from a 35mm negative would if it were printed traditionally. This is especially important for smaller print sizes that will be viewed close-up. As we go to larger print sizes, the distance the print will be viewed from is also likely to increase. From a farther distance the eye cannot see the detail, and so the print still looks good.

A 3 megapixel camera will have a resolution of about 2048 x 1536. It is still far below that of good 35mm negative. It is not till we reach a little bit over five megapixels that digital starts to compare to 35mm in detail. A 5.3 megapixel camera has a resolution of about 3008 x 1960.

A good six megapixel camera can surpass 35mm quality in detail. This works out to just about 300 dpi in an 8 x 10 print. Since 35mm has been accepted level of quality for so long, this is the resolution I recommend people start looking at for a digital camera. The six megapixel camera will provide the same level of quality (maybe a little bit better) that your old 35mm camera gave you. A 6.3 megapixel camera has a resolution of about 3088 x 2056.

What about seven and eight megapixel cameras? An eight megapixel camera approaches the quality of the professional medium format camera. It is interesting to point out that many of the seven megapixel cameras came out after the eight megapixel cameras were introduced. It has been suggested, the reason for this is because the first generation of eight megapixel point-and-shoot cameras had a problem with noise. This was caused the small sensors used in digital point-and-shoot cameras. This problem is largely overcome now, and did not apply to the larger digital single lens reflexes. While an eight megapixel camera will provide a little bit extra information in case you want to crop up in a, since few people ever make a print larger than 8 x 10, much of this extra information is wasted. I do not recommend that the average person purchase a digital camera resolution higher than eight megapixels.

Digital cameras with resolutions of 10 to 13 megapixels are well in the quality range of good 120mm professional cameras. They create huge file sizes that require significant computer resources to work with. A 13 megapixel camera will only get approximately 55 images on a 1 GB memory card in RAW format. This makes saving and archiving images more expensive and time-consuming. There are professional digital camera systems with resolutions of 20,40, and even a hundred megapixels. Only a professional would have need of images with this high a resolution.

To summarize, I suggest that almost anybody will be happy with a camera with a six megapixel resolution. If you're really on a budget you can go down as low as five megapixels and still have detailed pictures at the sizes you're most likely to have prints made. If you're an advanced shooter or hobbyist you'll enjoy the extra room that an eight megapixel camera will give you. If you're a professional, you need a camera resolution appropriate to the job at hand.

To put it simply, resolution is the amount of detail that your digital camera records of an image. A digital image is made up of pixels. For digital cameras, the number of pixels is measured just like your computer monitor. As digital camera resolutions have gotten higher, w will e now multiply the horizontal and vertical values for one total value, which is usually rounded out to the megapixel count. Some of the first digital cameras had resolution of 480 x 640 pixels. This is the same number of pixels in the computer monitor standard VGA. Multiplying 480 x 640 would end up with a resolution of about .3 megapixels. This was touted by the digital camera industry as photo-quality, but it is far from it. Most web cams support this resolution.

Next up in computer monitor resolution is SVGA or 600 x 800. This works out to about .5 megapixels. Still not there.

Currently, one of the most popular computer monitor settings is 1024x768. This is still less than one megapixel, it is also the resolution that we first saw consumer digital cameras at. This is also a common resolution for video projectors. The one megapixel digital cameras have a resolution of 1280 by 960. If you were to make a 4 x 6 print from an image this size, it might compare in quality to that of an old 110 camera, or APS camera.

When we reach the two megapixel mark, or resolution of 1600 x 1200, you can get a fairly nice print. This gives you a print size of 4 x 6 at not quite 300 dpi. However, when you make a photographic print much larger than 4 x 6, you'll be able to see the individual pixels or notice the lack of detail.

In a digital photographic print, 300 dots per inch is considered the standard for small prints. Some photographic printers print at less than 250 dpi. Some a little bit more than 300 dpi. While there is little bit of leeway here, digital prints at 300 dpi will appear to have the same detail that a print made from a 35mm negative would if it were printed traditionally. This is especially important for smaller print sizes that will be viewed close-up. As we go to larger print sizes, the distance the print will be viewed from is also likely to increase. From a farther distance the eye cannot see the detail, and so the print still looks good.

A 3 megapixel camera will have a resolution of about 2048 x 1536. It is still far below that of good 35mm negative. It is not till we reach a little bit over five megapixels that digital starts to compare to 35mm in detail. A 5.3 megapixel camera has a resolution of about 3008 x 1960.

A good six megapixel camera can surpass 35mm quality in detail. This works out to just about 300 dpi in an 8 x 10 print. Since 35mm has been accepted level of quality for so long, this is the resolution I recommend people start looking at for a digital camera. The six megapixel camera will provide the same level of quality (maybe a little bit better) that your old 35mm camera gave you. A 6.3 megapixel camera has a resolution of about 3088 x 2056.

What about seven and eight megapixel cameras? An eight megapixel camera approaches the quality of the professional medium format camera. It is interesting to point out that many of the seven megapixel cameras came out after the eight megapixel cameras were introduced. It has been suggested, the reason for this is because the first generation of eight megapixel point-and-shoot cameras had a problem with noise. This was caused the small sensors used in digital point-and-shoot cameras. This problem is largely overcome now, and did not apply to the larger digital single lens reflexes. While an eight megapixel camera will provide a little bit extra information in case you want to crop up in a, since few people ever make a print larger than 8 x 10, much of this extra information is wasted. I do not recommend that the average person purchase a digital camera resolution higher than eight megapixels.

Digital cameras with resolutions of 10 to 13 megapixels are well in the quality range of good 120mm professional cameras. They create huge file sizes that require significant computer resources to work with. A 13 megapixel camera will only get approximately 55 images on a 1 GB memory card in RAW format. This makes saving and archiving images more expensive and time-consuming. There are professional digital camera systems with resolutions of 20,40, and even a hundred megapixels. Only a professional would have need of images with this high a resolution.

To summarize, I suggest that almost anybody will be happy with a camera with a six megapixel resolution. If you're really on a budget you can go down as low as five megapixels and still have detailed pictures at the sizes you're most likely to have prints made. If you're an advanced shooter or hobbyist you'll enjoy the extra room that an eight megapixel camera will give you. If you're a professional, you need a camera resolution appropriate to the job at hand.

Senin, 14 Juni 2010

SLR Digital Cameras For Beginners


Image : http://www.flickr.com


Remember those how-to books which basically tries to teach everyday dummies anything from how to have sex to baking a pie? Well this articles is a little bit like that. For those who want to be in the know or at least get a sampling about what SLR Digital Cameras are all about then read on to get a better idea.

During the so-called "good old days" professional photographers and "artistes" tend to lug around bulky manual SLR cameras, different variations of lenses, flash, and of course, rolls and rolls of film. Before digital imaging was invented, professional photographers along with hobbyists only relied on their own abilities to create artsy photos depending on their own skill and talent. Just like with learning to first drive with a stick shift, those who want to get into photography may have an easier time dealing with the current SLR Digital Cameras if they have a good background on the old cameras that started it all.

Compared to the normal point and shoot cameras, SLR Digital Cameras tend to be harder to handle. Unlike those automatic cameras where all you have to do is focus on putting the subject at the center and just click away, SLR Digital Cameras still require the user to manually adjust the lens to be able to create different effects for the pictures. This is wherein you will be able to separate the really talented ones from those who are just using their SLR Digital Cameras as a neck accessory. Photography is a fun, fun hobby and if you do pursue it, photography can also turn out to be a lucrative business or career.

Just to get things started, you may want to check out the entry-level SLR Digital Cameras. However when checking out the latest models at the camera shop, make sure that what you are looking at is a SLR Digital Camera because you might end up buying an overpriced Zoom Camera instead, and you would not want that of course. The difference between SLR Digital Cameras and Zoom Cameras is pretty simple, a Zoom Camera is an upgraded and very pricey version of the entry level point and shoot camera while the SLR Digital Camera is of course, the high tech version of the old manual SLR cameras that were used by photography enthusiasts way back when. In order to get more mileage with your new camera, you are definitely better off buying the SLR Digital Camera instead.

Other things that you should take note of when you are going to buy your very first SLR Digital Camera, do not forget to save some money for other photography equipment and accessories as well. Take for example a nice and sturdy camera bag, this is a must to ensure you that you will be able to keep your new camera scratch free and free from any damage. A fast memory card reader should also be something that you should add to your list as well as a decent ring flash, camera neck strap, and different kinds of lenses - but that would be for a whole different shopping trip.

Sabtu, 12 Juni 2010

Compare Canon Rebel T2i Vs Nikon D90

The camera world is all about comparisons. If you look at user forums, you will see that each camera is compared to every other camera that has similar features.

And of course, the Canon - Nikon debate is at the top of many of these arguments.. er.. comparisons.

Most recently, there is a discussion about the merits of the new Canon Rebel T2i (aka 550D) versus almost any other model including some of its own siblings. However, with this writing, we will take a peek at some similarities and/or differences to compare the Canon Rebel T2i vs the Nikon D90, since the Nikon also boasts having video capabilities, as does the Canon model.

At the top of everyone's list is the sensor size. In this case we compare a brand new (for the Rebel line) Canon 18 megapixel sensor with a Nikon 12.9 megapixel sensor.

When we discuss pixels we generally think that more is better. However, this is not always the case. When you get to a certain level in the pixel count, you need to take into consideration the quality of the pixels rather than the quantity. Canon has added an additional 3 megapixels to the same size sensor found in the T1i, and they have done a good job of re-engineering the pixels so that they are of better quality. This has improved the image quality as well as the possible image size. But how many people actually print a photo that is 17 x 11.5? This is the size you could print at a resolution of 300 ppi (pixels per inch).

In comparison, the Nikon has a sensor size of 12.9 megapixels. Add to this a sensor that is actually physically larger than the Canon sensor, and you have the possibility of an image that prints with better quality.

This is very highly technical in nature, but suffice it to say the the Nikon D90 will produce images that are quite large and are considered by some to be of better quality than those produced by the Canon T2i. Now, that information is based on some very discerning technical evaluations. To the casual viewer, there may be no difference at all between the two.

Next, let's consider the movie mode, since this is the biggest marketing point for the new Canon. Right up front, there are no critics that will not admit the movie mode is superior on the Canon Rebel T2i compared to the Nikon D90. You can capture video at a whopping 1920 x 1080 which views beautifully on your HDTV. Add to that the new stereo sound input and the ability to attach an external mic and you have some pretty impressive video. The Nikon will capture 1080 x 720 at 24 frames per second. Not quite as impressive, but still good quality. Now, the only drawback to the larger format is the memory required in the camera and on your computer once you download. So, is it really necessary to go for that large format video? Your choice.

Another feature that you may want to consider in your choice is something called Live View. Both cameras have this feature, but the Canon has added something not available in the Nikon. Actually two things. First, you can turn on a grid that divides your screen into thirds. This is a handy feature for composing your photos using the Rule of Thirds to get a more pleasing photo layout. Additionally, with the Canon, you can zoom in Live View to 5x or 10x size to check the focus of your shot. You can only imagine how much this can help eliminate out of focus shots.

There are other features to look at, and I suggest that you do before making your choice.

A major consideration is whether you already own a previous model of either brand. If so, you will definitely save money by simply upgrading to a newer model so you can continue to use your lenses.

However, if you are buying your first Digital SLR camera, you can't go wrong with either model. Image quality leans toward the Nikon, but the Canon (as with all the former Rebel models) is recognized as having superior image quality as well.

So, who wins when you compare the Canon Rebel T2i vs Nikon D90? You do, no matter which one you choose.

Olympus PEN E-PL1

This is a Micro Four Thirds-format mirror less camera for those that are still unfamiliar, this is a new class of camera that shoves a dSLR sensor into a compact body with interchangeable lenses (read more here). The picture quality on this camera is stellar, and the simple interface is excellent for compact camera users who want significantly better photos without the hassle and bulk of a dSLR.

Jumat, 11 Juni 2010

The Wide World of Camera Lenses

Minolta has always been the leader in producing lenses that are one of its own kinds. The minolta camera lenses have now gone beyond the imagination of the crowd. Recently, these people have come up with the exotic special purpose lens, which specializes in producing a transition between the in-focus and out-of-focus areas in the picture. The best feature in these lenses is its ability to reduce the distracting effects from the background without distorting the original image. These lenses also come at an excellent price range and are excellent in optical quality and range for daily use.

Moving on from lenses, we digress a little and jump on directly to the security cameras. The latest security system uses the board cameras. These are mini cameras that have lenses mounted on circuit boards. The small size of these cameras makes them simply apt for use in the security system applications. Sometimes they also use the pin hole lenses that are available in two categories - flat and conical lenses.

The conical lens is used when the security system camera is installed on the ceiling tiles and the flat lens is used when the security camera system uses a thin material such as clothing. Some of these board cameras also use the board lenses for better picture quality. Most of the board cameras operate with an AC adapter or at times using a battery for power supply. However, most of the brand manufacturers suggest the use of good quality adapters for your cameras.

Talking of camera systems, we just cannot afford to forget the canon camera systems. It is one of the leading producers of the most complete single lens reflex camera system in the world. They give you guaranteed products that can take you to a much higher level of photography. They use some exclusive technologies that are unmatched by any other camera manufacturer in the world.

Sometimes these cameras use the teleconverters for the conversion or rather extension of the focal lengths. One of the popular names in this field is the bower that boasts not only of teleconverters but are also leading manufactures of wide angle lenses. The bower lenses come with a high resolution, ultra wide angle and even macro fittings attached. Another important camera system is the telescopic camera system that is used for security as well as some industrial inspections. This system features a powerful monochrome camera and an illuminator mounted on a telescopic pole.

With all these varieties of cameras available, people generally do not prefer fixed lens cameras. Thus, manufacturers have come up with a better solution in the form of the varifocal lenses. As the name suggests, these lenses can be adjusted even after the purchase of the camera. In simple words, these lenses provide the facility of changing the focal length and consequently the magnification of the image.

There is one more historical name that needs to be added to the list and that is the cosina cameras and camera lenses. This company is also accredited with world's first all-push-button SLR cameras. Then, there is a latest product in the market by the name of Nikon's d2h camera, which is receiving rave reviews. It is much better in looks and performance than its predecessors D1H and D1.

Even after all these discussions, some of us are still not aware of many of the terminologies used in the field of camera and lenses. One good example is the 3x, which denotes the ratio of the camera's longest focal length to the shortest focal length. It, by no ways, means that two 3x cameras will have the same actual magnification.

Kamis, 10 Juni 2010

Canon PowerShot A590IS 8MP Digital Camera Review

Photography enthusiasts seem to have really good word about the Canon PowerShot A590 IS. First of all, the design of the Canon PowerShot A590 IS has improved and looks more professional with its dark gray matte finish. It also has a great image quality, and you can adjust the contrast, hue and saturation, sharpness, and the resolution settings directly in the camera.

When it comes to more technical stuff, the aperture priority of the camera readjusts the light depending on the subject you're about to shoot. It also has adjustable flahs modes for manual control, which gives you more control when shooting in different kinds of lighting. The optical zoom is up to 4x with an 8 megapixel lens. But the biggest upside of having this camera is that it's affordable and loaded with great features.

However, there are also a number of not-so-good qualities that need to be pointed about about the Canon PowerShot A590 IS. The biggest downside I think is the use of AA batteries, as opposed to the more advanced lithium ion other digital cameras use. The use of the AA batteries makes this camera heavier than its real weight, although still relatively lighter compared to other models.

Some users may also find the flash range of the camera to be a bit too short for their purpose, and the flash recycle time takes too long. Users also find the wide angle view to be insufficient to their needs, and that the video quality of the camera is not the best. But hey, good thing the video feature is not the selling point of the Canon PowerShot A590 IS.

Overall, if you're looking for a lighter weight alternative for your SLRs which sport great features, you should opt for the Canon PowerShot A590 IS. Despite its downsides, most photography enthusiasts still give the camera a rating of 9 out of 10.

If you want to read more of the review for the Canon PowerShot A590 IS, just click on the link.




My name is Seymour and I'm a freelance writer for http://www.cirujanolasik.com/

Rabu, 09 Juni 2010

The Best Digital Camera This Year is Surprising

What is our fascination for getting the best of everything? It's part of the reason why top ten lists are so popular. While the best digital camera for someone else, even a professional photographer, may not be the best digital camera for you. The trick in buying digital cameras, or anything else for that matter, is determining what features, options, bells and whistles are important to you.

With all that in mind, there are a few digital camera tips that are bound to help you shorten your search for the ultimate digital camera. One criteria that can help out, is to settle on one brand of digital camera you know to be good. Canon would be a good example. Perhaps you have a friend that likes their Canon camera, or perhaps you've had good luck with Canon digital cameras in the past. Either way, it's an approach that has pros and cons. One con, is that the better known brands are likely to be higher priced. Another is, that by limiting your choice to a specific brand, you've eliminated a lot of good digital cameras.

While it may seem strange to suggest, that a high tech industry like digital cameras is becoming a bit of a commodity market, it's true. When I say commodity, I'm suggesting that the technology has evolved to the point, that it doesn't really matter which brand you buy. The technology is stable and mature enough that camera brand is more about advertising then actual performance.

Just do a little searching online for Canon fan-boys, or Nikon fan-boys, and read some of the arguments they make for why their favorite brand of camera is so much better. It's sometimes hard to tell if they're arguing for their camera, or their opponents.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend, that you buy whatever camera your online camera store has for sale. Chances are it's a pretty good camera, with more features than you'll ever use, and you will save a bunch of money.

If this isn't your first digital camera, then you may have a better idea of what specific features and functionality is important for you. One final tip, don't be afraid to venture away from the traditional point and shoot compact cameras. SLR cameras are a hot item these days. The newer ones aren't really much more complicated than a cheap point and shoot, and the prices on these puppies are dropping fast.